The History of Pesto

Pesto has its roots in two Roman dishes from the past: moretum and agliata. Moretum was made during ancient Roman times by using a mortar and pestle to crush herbs that were then combined with cheese, olive oil, and salt. Agliata came onto the culinary scene during the Middle Ages in Rome. Similarly, it was made by combining garlic, breadcrumbs or walnuts, olive oil, red wine vinegar, salt, and pepper in a mortar and pestle. Notably, it was frequently used as a pasta sauce just like modern-day pesto. Liguria is considered the center of pesto production in modern times, but the sauce is popular all over Italy and in the many parts of the world where Italian cuisine has been embraced. While there are many types of pesto, Pesto Genovese or Pesto Alla Genovese (Genoa-style pesto) is the type we are most familiar with today. A recipe for Pesto Genovese didn’t appear in print until 1865, making it a relatively modern recipe. It is made with just five ingredients: basil, garlic, pine nuts, olive oil, and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, and for the most authentic flavor, Italians swear by the use of a mortar and pestle. While pesto is still most often used as a pasta sauce, many modern cooks also use it to elevate salads, sandwiches, pizzas, and more. Today, experimental chefs also make pesto using a variety of different ingredients ranging from arugula to wild greens and even unusual vegetable parts like carrot tops. Pesto in all its forms —and especially Pesto Genovese — remains one of the world’s most beloved Italian sauces today.